[Issue identified] Buying new PSU shortly, current one died, have questions

Discussion in 'Unrelated Discussion' started by zweistein000, September 1, 2014.

  1. zweistein000

    zweistein000 Post Master General

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    THE PROBLEM WAS A DYING PSU, I'M GETTING A NEW ONE AND I HAVE QUESTIONS.

    So my ancient PC is dying on me and since I really want to keep it running till December when I will be getting a new one I need help solving this issue.

    Basically up until today and started 3 days ago ma computer would randomly decided to not send any output to the monitor when I turned it on. It would take me several tries and reboots to get it running and sometimes the computer would just show me the initial boot screen and then turn the monitor off and stand there, while the other times it would turn off and then back on, but one it fully booted it would remain working happily.

    Today it started doing this once the windows is already booted so I decided to take the case off and see if anything was overheating and indeed it was: the motherboard. While coth CPU and GPU coolers would be warm and I could keep my finger on, the mobo was always really how and I probably couldn't keep my finger on it for more than 15-30 seconds.

    I am currently searching the web trying to find what the problem is. Any ideas here?

    Also there is no beep code as it shuts the monitor down.
    Last edited: September 3, 2014
  2. cola_colin

    cola_colin Moderator Alumni

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    I dont think "I cant touch it" is a good way to verify if something is overheating. Some parts on motherboards can get hot, like 70-80°C I think. That's already too hot for your fingers, but not a big issue for the hardware.

    So first I'd recommend to use a tool like hwmonitor to check the temps ;)

    Does the issue come up when you start the system in safe mode? Sounds like an issue with the graphics card to me.
  3. kjotak109

    kjotak109 Well-Known Member

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    Hello,

    It sounds like you have a problem with the GPU, as @cola_colin said. Have you cleaned the dust out of your computer lately? That can cause overheating if too much dust gets in.

    Do you have enough fans to keep the system cool?
  4. zweistein000

    zweistein000 Post Master General

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    Yea I agree the "touch method" is not the best, but I can't check the temperatures otherwise as my computers monitor turns off. I have cleaned the computer lately, but the problem was present before that.

    Also today a new symptom to add: Computer tuns on and the turn off completely, requiring me to turn off the PSU and turn it back on before I can attempt to turn the computer on again. This has also caused BIOS errors as today I literally needed 40 minutes of trying to turn the computer on before I was able to get into Windows. I am seriously thinking of not turing it off again.

    The issue mainly occurs just after BIOS does the initial check of everything, seconds after the power button is presses and before windows boots. When it does occur as windows is running it usually doesn't do that when GPU in under heavy load. It doesn't seem to be any sense when it does it as once it has happened as I was loading a system in PA, but the other time it has happened was when I was on my desktop and computer was idling.
  5. zweistein000

    zweistein000 Post Master General

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    Also apparently my motherboard is so cool it's-.54 °C there o_O


    current temperatures.png
  6. Geers

    Geers Post Master General

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    I'd suggest cleaning it. Bust that dust! But with a brush or compressed air, don't go shoving a vacuum cleaner in there.
  7. zweistein000

    zweistein000 Post Master General

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    But I cleaned it 3 days ago o_O
  8. Geers

    Geers Post Master General

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    Well then I don't know.
  9. kjotak109

    kjotak109 Well-Known Member

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    What exactly did you clean your computer with?

    Also, what is the make, model, and energy capacity of your PSU?
  10. zweistein000

    zweistein000 Post Master General

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    LPK6-400WP basically 400W PSU. I don't know that do you mean by make.

    I also don't know the company who made it. I got the PSU for free, when I burned my old one out trying to over clock my old Intel Pentium D, so it probably isn't a very good one. :p

    EDIT: If it's a PSU, I've got plenty of old ones form hte old computers lying about, one is bound to be a 400 W. And if not, well I guess I'm buying a PSU for my new computer 4 months early (assuming that new PSU can run old computers).
    Last edited: September 2, 2014
  11. zweistein000

    zweistein000 Post Master General

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    It WAS the PSU. I put one of my old 350 Watt PSU in and the problems didn't occur. I am however worried that the weaker Wattage will kill my hardware.
  12. cola_colin

    cola_colin Moderator Alumni

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    All a weaker PSU should maybe do is turn off when it has too much to do I think.
  13. zweistein000

    zweistein000 Post Master General

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    As I plan on buying a new PC in December, I will probably go buy a new PSU really soon, that I can then transfer to a new computer. The questions now are:

    1. Is it possible to put a newer PSU into an old computer, or have the pins on the cables changed too much? I doubt they have, but rather safe than sorry.

    2. When buying a PSU, is it worth thinking ahead, buying a decent multirail PSU for about 100-150 EUR even though I am not going to use 2xGPU for at least 2-4 years?
  14. BulletMagnet

    BulletMagnet Post Master General

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    With your prehistoric specs, a 350W will do fine for the time being.
  15. equinoxiswin

    equinoxiswin Active Member

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    Most people grossly overestimate their computer's wattage.

    Ancient CPU: 85W
    Ram: Negligible
    4670: This series runs at full wattage 24/7 I think. 120W.
    Peripherals: Negligible.
    Hard drives, etc: Negligible.

    You'll be fine. The HTPC I just built uses a 250W power supply.

    1. Yes, you can do that. Most standard PSUs come with all the cables you need. Research the form factors. Dell and a few other OEMs use a proprietary PSU form factor that's harder to replace.

    2. No, it's not worth upgrading an OEM computer much at all. You should build a new computer. It's pointless upgrading cheap computers.
  16. zweistein000

    zweistein000 Post Master General

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    Well that computer I'm going to get isn't going to be that cheap :p

    Intel core I7 Quad core with multithreading
    AMD R9 280x or 290
    16 GM RAM
    I am also going to get a mobo that I can use later as a base to upgrade better.
  17. websterx01

    websterx01 Post Master General

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    What do you plan to do with this computer?

    Also, I've had good experience with Corsair's higher end models (HX, AX; do NOT get CX), and Seasonic (only used G-Series though). Cooler Master's are reliable, but the connectors are of an obviously lower quality, which is why I don't recommend them as a first pick.

    Oh! Sapphire makes great aftermarket AMD videocards, however, the screws on the display connectors WILL fall out. Every one of their cards I've touched has this issue, otherwise they are as good as all the rest (compared to Asus, XFX and HIS). (I'm not sure if many reviews of their products contain that tid-bit and I'd rather you not end up with the slightly annoying surprise :D)

    Holy cow, super edit.
    Last edited: September 7, 2014
  18. trialq

    trialq Post Master General

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    I'd just get a reasonably efficient and recommended psu around the 50 euro range, instead of thinking 2-4 years ahead (I tend not to upgrade and just build new, for the sake of a little more money you have an extra working computer to use or hand down to someone). If you think gutting and upgrading is worthwhile, then go for it.
  19. zweistein000

    zweistein000 Post Master General

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    Too late... A 750 W CX is on it's way. The problem is that I will use the PUS for extended periods of time and I had to think about Capacitor ageing. Any reason why CX is not a good choice? It offers what I need for a reasonable price
  20. websterx01

    websterx01 Post Master General

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    At my high school, I work in the Tech Internship program, running the tech side of the school. We used to get the CX series, but after receiving usually one every time that was DoA, and having many die on us after only a few years (or less in edge cases), we're looking for a little bit more reliable model. They do their job well, but they seem to be much lower quality (as expected, I suppose) than Corsair's professional series.

    The odds of you having a significant issue probably aren't high because we employ well over 200 (2 different models of the CX, modular and standard) and you're only getting one. Sadly, it looks like the next best model (RM, which I believe replaces TX) is a solid 20% more in America. I think the Cooler Master V-series is comparable to the RX or better (in price, just a tad cheaper, and performance), though their connectors are a bit tougher to use.

    Modular PSUs are the most amazing invention ever. If you plan on switching out PSUs for a better model, try to get a semi/fully modular one, it makes building a breeze, and it looks so much better. :p

    [Do note that if it's not worth sending it back, don't just based on my recommendation. It's possible that we've gotten a bad batch that we mixed up and were just unlucky, but I figured a warning is nice!]
    zweistein000 likes this.

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